从Hessie TH出发,17英里的环线。沿途经过Jasper Lake、Devil’s Thumb Lake、大陆分水岭、King Lake Trail。没有Class 1以上的路线,海拔爬升3200英尺,最高处跟CDT重合了一小段路,7月份来说不定还能遇到thru-hiker。风景给三星,是条拉练路线。
入门路线4:Mirror Lake, Crater Lake
从荒野区西侧的Monarch Lake TH出发,16.4英里往返,尽头的两个湖非常好看,但是往返路线无聊、沿途除了几个瀑布之外也没有特别开阔的景色。不想走回头路的,参考下一条路线。
进阶路线1:印第安群峰环线 (28英里)
Long Lake TH (火爆) – Pawnee Pass – Crater Lake – Buchanan Pass – Coney Flats – Long Lake TH. 这条线在越野跑界很有名,是想看Crater和Mirror Lake的最“简单”的走法,要上大陆分水岭两次、过两个山口,全程 Class 1,沿途可见Indian Peaks绝大多数的山峰,放在“进阶”纯粹是因为比较长。一天可搞完,非常推荐。
进阶路线2:St.Vrain冰川环线(25英里)
Middle Saint Vrain TH (又称Camp Dick)- Buchanan Pass – Gourd Lake – Island Lake – 大陆分水岭 – Lake Envy – St.Vrain Glacier Trail – 停车场。别看这条路线没有上条长,中间可是有一段Class 2+的上坡(从Island Lake上到大陆分水岭),在分水岭上俯瞰St.Vrain冰川非常香,但是从豁口下到Lake Envy的碎石陡坡可就没那么舒服了,我给个class 2+。如果去,建议在Island Lake露营一晚,一天搞完的话需要极强的Off-trail能力。
科罗拉多步道的平均海拔为3139米,是美国平均海拔最高的长距线路。从东向西,步道会依次经过Front Range , Ten-Mile Range, Sawatch Range和San Juan Mountains(圣胡安山脉)。科罗拉多步道的最高点位于西南部的圣胡安山脉,海拔为4045米;除此之外,步道附近会经过科罗拉多第一高峰/美国本土第二高峰—艾尔伯特峰。步道大部分都在3000米的高原地带。
活动:5分,这里诞生的文学艺术摄影音乐作品数不胜数,钓鱼攀岩登山游泳等活动机会比比皆是。西耶拉需要慢慢走,这里值得你们两人享用quality time, 而不是报以竞技体育的态度来快速过关
第5名
维京峡谷Narrows全程16英里溯溪徒步
Zion-Virgin Narrows Thru-hike
Utah
一句话总结:人生最难忘的14英里水路
总分:18/25
笔者溯溪经历有限,不过就景观独特性和风景本身的质量来说,Narrows真的是把例如哥伦比亚河谷等其他竞争对手甩开了不止八条街。从Virgin North Fork上游的Chamberlain Ranch先走2英里土路,再顺流而下14英里,经过几个小瀑布和Wall Street华尔街,越向下游走游人越多。涉及水路徒步的线路从总体而言上都会得到我的高分;在陆地上走久了,在水里看到的风景如此不同,两个人一起共渡难关、享受惊喜的体验也会让人终生难忘。
这里深处新墨西哥腹地,在Canyon de Chelly以东75英里,在Chaco Culture National Historic Park以北25英里。没有水,没有徒步栈道,整片广袤的荒原皆为你所有,可以任意探索、全年开放。带上地图、指南针、充足的饮用水,租一辆越野车,事先找好拍摄的景点和时机,记录好GPS路线(确保你能找到回来的路)。
南犹他-北亚利桑那这片已经不能用“神奇”二字来形容的土地,已经被诺娅cover过了冰山一角。除了Paria河谷-猩红色岩壁国家纪念碑、狼丘北坡(the Wave)、狼丘南坡 (White Pocket)等等纪念碑范围内的土地,大环线还有用整整一万字写不完的景点,在Photographing the Southwest – Utah这本书中有详细的介绍,诺娅仅仅说一下一些名字:鲍威尔湖水位下降之后暴露出来的河谷、Hole in the Rock、Buckskin Gulch、科罗拉多峡谷、大阶梯(大峡谷-布莱斯-锡安等等)。此地近年来游客增多,西南帝施老师提醒我荒野分给得太高了,但因当地交通不便/除了重要景点之外基本人迹稀少,还是给个4分安慰分。
HUB: 拉斯维加斯至Kanab车程3小时;Kanab至Wire Pass 1小时;Kanab至White House Trailhead 1小时。
“The Bob”一般是蒙大拿一大片大陆分水岭山脉的统称,包括除了Bob Marshall之外的Scapegoat和Great Bear三大区域,总面积超过1500万英亩,是美国最大的保护区系统之一。灰熊、山猫、灰狼、麋鹿、黑熊、山狮在北大陆分水岭繁衍栖息,1100英里的步道系统在这片庞大的区域当中也是冰山一角。最著名的地标–The Chinese Wall, 是一片绵延22英里、高1000英尺的石墙。The Bob北端接冰川国家公园,南接Helena, Montana, 中间有接近200英里的大陆分水岭(落基山脉)。
HUB: Choteau, Glacier National Park
最佳季节:八月和九月
推荐路线1:10英里单日徒步登顶Headquater Peak。远眺Rocky Mountain, Old Baldy和Sawtooth Range, 从Headquarters Creek Pass Traihead开始。
Mt.Baker是喀斯科特山脉在美国最北端的一座火山,从国境线对面的温哥华可以看到远景。贝克也是除雷尼尔之外的第二大冰川系统,有超过一万英亩的冰雪面积,降雪量可达150英寸/年,积雪可达18英尺。Coleman Glacier是贝克的最常规攀登路线。Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest里也有许多好地方,在此不详细介绍。
HUB: 从西雅图向东车程约3小时。
最佳季节:攀登季六-八月;徒步季八-九月。
推荐线路:Skyline Divide, 9英里往返;Blanca Lake, 6.5英里往返;Weeden Creek, 8.5英里往返。
诺娅有两个朋友既去过阿拉斯加也去过风河,他们(一个美国男生,一个中国女生)都毫不犹豫地说Wind River Range是心目中的最爱。的确,诺娅已经无法从本土48州中找到与之匹敌的地方了。讽刺的是,20个最佳自然保护区的第2名和第1名一个在黄石的北边,一个在黄石的南边,风景把中间那个国家公园甩出十万八千里,也许以后去黄石的小伙伴可以绕个道试试…
风河山脉的两大徒步区域 – Cirque of Towers和Titcomb Basin, 即是徒步区域,亦是登山/攀岩圣地,每年八月野花遍布,高山湖泊湛蓝澄澈,天高云低,古老的花岗岩山脉高耸巍峨,绵延不绝。这里常常拿来和High Sierra相比,但诺娅觉得风河更有野性、气势更宏大。
首先,我们先要来了解一下所谓的“优胜美地户外分级系统”也就是攀岩中常用的Yosemite Decimal System —
Class 1: Walking with a low chance of injury, hiking boots a good idea.
Class 2: Simple scrambling, with the possibility of occasional use of the hands. Little potential danger is encountered. Hiking Boots highly recommended.
Class 3: Scrambling with increased exposure. Handholds are necessary. A rope should be available for learning climbers, or if you just choose to use one that day, but is usually not required. Falls could easily be fatal.
Class 4: Simple climbing, with exposure. A rope is often used. Natural protection can be easily found. Falls may well be fatal.
Class 5: Is considered technical roped free (without hanging on the rope, pulling on, or stepping on anchors) climbing; belaying, and other protection hardware is used for safety. Un-roped falls can result in severe injury or death.
Class 1就是在有明确小径或是指南体系、有非常清晰的路线的情况下,走路,也就是我们平常所说的“徒步”;
Class 2指的是在路线不太明确、有大石头等需要手脚并用的路况下的中高难度徒步,我们常说的“off-trail hiking”就是指的这一种;另外美国大多数14er也在Class 2或以下。犹他或者亚利桑那沙漠当中需要找路的峡谷严格意义上来说也是Class 2 navigation.
Favorite stretch of 14er’s — i.e., best string, consistently good travel, scenery, fewest roads?
Luke: Hands down the San Juans. From the time we entered after crossing the San Luis Valley we had nothing but trail until our exit to Gunnison along Blue Mesa Reservoir. For a good chunk of the travel in the San Juan’s we were on the Colorado Trail/Continental Divide Trail, and the hiking was fantastic, and certainly the range with the least amount of road miles and incredibly scenic trail miles!
Junaid: I’d say the San Juan Range. We had a few days of climbing in there that were among the best of the trip, we had amazing people encounters, the scenery was unbeatable, the trail was almost all in superb shape, there was no real road walking. We had a lot of weather in there, sure, but it was a fantastic section.
而San Juan Mountains地处科罗拉多西南部落基山脉的心腹地段,Hub城市包括Lake City, Creed, Silverton, Durango, Ouray, Telluride等等。San Juan Mountains十分偏远,荒野感十足,很多路线在Class 2或以上,有些地方需要bushwack.
San Juan Range的14ner按严格意义上来说有12座,加上难度较高、风景极美的两座附属峰El Diente和North Eolus:San Luis, Sunshine, Redcloud, Handies, Eolus, North Eolus, Sunlight, Windom, El Diente, Mount Wilson, Wilson Peak, Sneffels, Wetterhorn, Uncompahgre. 虽说14er名气最大,但让圣胡安久负盛名的还是庞大的13er群:在科罗拉多所有的13er之中,有43%(一共314座)就在San Juans. 同时,这里还有科罗拉多四大作死穿越中的Wilson to El Diente.
Warning! Because of the extremely challenging and dangerous nature of this route, you must be a very experienced desert backpacker in peak physical condition before attempting any section of the Hayduke Trail!
Thru-hikers beware! The Hayduke Trail traverses intensely rugged terrain, is largely off-trail, is not signed and ranges in elevation from 1,800 feet in the Grand Canyon to 11,419 atop Mt. Ellen’s South Summit!
Arches National Park in Salt Valley…Devil’s Garden…Courthouse Wash…Moab, UT…Needles District of Canyonlands National Park…Beef Basin…Young Canyon to Dark Canyon…Hite, at the eastern end of Lake Powell…Dirty Devil River…Highway 95 at Poison Spring Wash…the Henry Mountains…Tarantula Mesa…Muley Twist Canyon…Waterpocket Fold, Capitol Reef National Park…Red Slide…Circle Cliffs…Silver Falls Creek…Harris Wash…Hole-in-the-Rock Road…Escalante, UT…Kaiparowits Plateau…Smokey Mountain Road…Canaan Peak…Grosvenor Arch…Round Valley Draw…Hackberry Canyon…Paria River and townsite…Sheep Creek…Skutumpah Road…Bullrush Gorge…Kitchen Corral Wash…Kaibab Gulch…Buckskin Gulch…Coyote Buttes and “The Wave”…House Rock Wash…Nankoweap Trailhead…Marble Gorge…Little Colorado River Confluence…Beamer, Tanner, Escalante, and Tonto Trails…Grand Canyon Village at South Rim…Tonto Trail to South Bass Trail…Aztec Ampitheater…Apache Point…Forester Canyon…Fossil Canyon…Great Thumb Mesa…Sinyella Fault…Olo and Matkatamibia Canyons…Grand Canyon Village at South Rim.
Appalachian Trail vs. Pacific Crest Trail vs. Continental Divide Trail
Needless to say the AT and the CDT are not alike in anyway. They are both long trails that goes through the mountains… and that is where the similarity ends
A better comparison is between the CDT and the PCT
Both are about the same length, go above treeline and in remote areas
As with the PCT, the CDT is open to horses. Currently parts of the CDT are also mountain bike accessible
The PCT is finished, is well marked and is relatively well used. The CDT is unfinished, is not well marked in many places and is very unused in places
Take most thru-hikers 4-5 months to hike the CDT
Logistics are similar to the PCT; about 5-7 days in between resupplies
Less towns than the PCT (never mind the AT); the towns stops do tend to be more expensive (less hostels vs motels, less trail angels and so on). Call it a wash.
2) SC – All around Anchorage -This goes from Anchorage to Valdez, then to Eureka Roadhouse, then to Talkeetna River and down to Anchorage (or Valdez to Anchorage via Talkeetna River)
3) SW – Pt. Heiden to Chigniks via Aniakchak
4) Aleutians – Umnak: Ft Glenn to Nikolski (Geysers!)
5) NW – Utukok to Noatak
6) Gates of the Arctic – AAA
7) ANWR – Kaktovik to Arctic Village
8) Interior – Charlie River
9) Alaska Range – Wonder Lake to Iliamna (longish)
10) Nabesna to Cordova (not really as long as it sounds)
11) Kotzebue to Nome
12) Iceworm Traverse: Seward to Homer
13) Gerstle to McKinley Village
14) Girdwood to Knik
15) Limestone Jags Loop
16) Arctic Circle
17) Ribdon to Kaktovik
18) Susitna River bridge to Talkeetna
19) 3 day loop in Arrgetch over Ariel
20) Granite Tors loop
接下来,Dial隆重做出了以下四个总结:
1) Kaktovik to Kotzebue is the Alaskan Appalachian Trail
2) Canada to Iliamna is an AK PCT
3) Nabesna to Gustavus (“Copper and Gold”) has no Lower 48 equal (and is the best FatBike trip on the Continent), nor does
4) “Once around Anchorage” (Anchorage -> Whittier -> Valdez -> Eureka Rdhse -> Talkeetna -> Anchorage) which is SC AK’s best multisport adventure
There are two very distinct geological types of rock that are clearly evident in the Elk Mountains, the tertiary intrusives, and the stratified sedimentary. The whitish, gray rock of the tertiary intrusives is responsible for the sweeping, skinny ridges that connect point-to-point, evident in Snowmass Mountain, The Beckwith’s, Capitol Peak and the Chair Mountain massif. Second, the stratified purplish-red, sedimentary rock of the Permian age, evidenced in mountains like Cathedral Peak, Teocalli Mountain, Pyramid Peak, Maroon Bells and “Willow Peak.”
从鹿皮山口到骑士山口:共6英里,含4英里的下降和2英里爬升。上坡和下坡都算是四个山口里比较舒缓的。4英里下降的尽头是Snowmass Lake, 在岔路右转行走0.1英里即可到达湖畔。这张图可以帮您有效辨认湖边的山峰。 Snowmass Lake也是逆时针选手到达的第一个靠谱营地(据说这里周末人满为患,先到先得)。从湖开始上坡,之后一路都可以看到湖水,比其鹿皮山口全部都是山脉的阳刚之气,湖水为骑士增添了许多灵秀。
科罗拉多栈道的平均海拔为3139米,是美国平均海拔最高的长距线路。从东向西,栈道会依次经过Front Range , Ten-Mile Range, Sawatch Range和San Juan Mountains(圣胡安山脉)。科罗拉多栈道的最高点位于西南部的圣胡安山脉,海拔为4045米;除此之外,栈道附近会经过科罗拉多第一高峰/美国本土第二高峰—艾尔伯特峰。栈道大部分都在3000米的高原地带。
“七个盒子”: 大家除了关注how fast, how long, how far这三个问题之外,很多人都问:你吃什么?我的吃的全部是提前寄到沿途的小镇上的,此行一共有7个地方。几乎每个都需要搭车到达。最重要的补给品是食物,燃料和维生素,因为沿途很多地方买不到。邮寄补给品,就一定要等邮局开门,所以尽量不要在周末到达。其实燕麦片/方便面/能量棒/土豆泥/葵瓜子/trail mix这些食品都很不错,也能在大多数地方买到。
谁说科罗拉多从来不下雨?科罗拉多的雨季一般从七月下旬延续到八月中旬;作为今年的early-starter, 没料到还是赶上了雨季的尾巴。科罗拉多的雷雨多出现在中午1点之后,和傍晚4-6点之间,基本所有的雨都是雷阵雨。对于全栈道的精华,San Juan Mountains, 我留下的唯一印象就是无穷无尽地空旷山顶,和山顶黑压压的乌云。高原上的雨是极其冷的,失温其实比闪电的威胁更可怕。
在我半信半疑地朝那几棵树移动的过程中,被一片巨石滩挡住了去路;我的腿已经僵硬地几乎无法下蹲。两人在前进十几步之后果断放弃,这番。也许,惟一合理的选择是继续前进,用身体产生的热量让我回温。这时长沼说了一句话:“It’s all in your mind (一切皆在你的头脑中)。” 让我恍然相信意志力的力量可以帮我做到一切。